LIPSTICK FORMULATION

INTRODUCTION :

   Cosmetic are incredibly in demand since historical time until today. For instance, lipstick. Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes and emollients that apply color, texture and protection to the lips. There are many colors and types of lipstick exist. As with most types of makeup, lipstick is typically, but not exclusively, worn by women. Some lipsticks are also lip balms to add color and hydration. 

     Lipstick formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and to add glamour touch to the make up. Lipsticks are cosmetics formulations for modification or accentuation of lip color. Lipstick provide a convenient means of either freshening a makeup by coloring or protection of lips from the effects of cold, dry weather, UV light and wind.
     In the formulation of lipstick, ingredients such as the pigments, oil, waxes and emollients play an important role in giving the desired product and each function of the ingredients should be acknowledged in other to produce a lipstick that functions really well, gives less irritation and therefore, has a potential in marketing.
     

METHODOLOGY :

1. There are seven different lipstick formulations prepared by varying amount of Phase A, the color of the lipsticks and also Phase B, the ingredients :


PHASE A
PHASE B
PHASE C
15 mL Castor oil
1.7 g White beeswax
2-3 drops of Paraben (0.1% methyl paraben solution)
0.5 g Golden red pigments
1.0 g Cocoa butter

0.5 g Mica pigments
1.3 mL Vitamin E acetate


0.5 g Vaseline


0.6 mL Honey (for taste)


2. For the first lipstick formulation, the ingredients used are listed as in the table above.

3. Firstly, 15mL of Castor oil was measured and put into evaporating dish on water bath. 0.5g Golden red pigments and 0.5g Mica pigments were then added accordingly. The mixture of colour dispersion was stirred until homogenous. Temperature was checked regularly to prevent overheating. (Phase A)

4. Meanwhile, solid of 1.7g White beeswax was melted on the water bath together with Vaseline. The mixture was stirred until there was no presence of solid particle. Cocoa butter, vitamin E acetate, honey and drops of paraben were added and the mixture was continuously stirred. (Phase B&C)

5. Finally, the two mixtures were removed from heat. Colour dispersion was added into the mixture of ingredients and stirred gently until the final product was achieved. 

6. The final product was then poured into a mould and let cool before being sealed.

7. For the other six lipstick preparations, some changes in the quantities of the ingredients were made:

Lipstick 2 : 1 g of Golden red pigments was used to replace Mica pigments.

Lipstick 3 : 1g of Mica pigments was used to replace Golden red pigments.

Lipstick 4 : No amount of vaseline was added. A total of 1.5g cocoa butter was used.

Lipstick 5 : No amount of cocoa butter was added. A total of 1.5g Vaseline was used.

Lipstick 6 : The weight of white beeswax and Vaseline was altered where 0.7g of beeswax and 1.5g vaseline were used.

Lipstick 7 : The volume of vitamin E acetate and honey was altered where 0.3mL of vitamin E acetate and 1.6mL of honey were used. 

RESULT :
Lipstick Formulation
Appearance/
Texture
Melting Point
(°C)
Color Chart
1
(Original formulation)
Lighter gold colour with glossy and sheer texture
100

2
Gold colour with glossy and sheer texture
103

3
Fair white colour with glossy and sheer texture
102

4
Lighter gold colour with sheer texture but less glossy
103

5
Lighter gold colour with oily and sheer texture
76

6
Lighter gold colour with glossy and sheer texture (presence of droplets are noticed on the surface of the product)
78

7
Lighter gold colour with sticky and less rigid semi-solid (more to liquid-like)
85




DISCUSSION :


Based on the result and observation obtained from each formulation of the lipstick, there are differences in terms of the appearance and texture and also melting point of the lipsticks when we change the quantities of ingredients. The original formulation would give lighter gold colour with sheer and glossy texture which is the normal texture of a lipstick except that the colour is a bit translucent. For lipstick 2 and lipstick 3, the ingredient that varied was the colour pigment which can be seen from the appearance of the formulation where lipstick 2 has gold colour and lipstick 3 has fair white colour. For lipstick 4, there was no amount of vaseline added during the formulation and the result is that the texture comes out less glossy and lack of moisture. Next, in the formulation of lipstick 5, 1.5g of vaseline was added with zero amount of cocoa butter. What had been observed is that the product turns out to be a bit oily because high amount of vaseline being added. Lipstick 6 on the other hand, we had changed the quantities of white beeswax and vaseline where there was less amount of beeswax and high amount of vaseline. The texture of the formulation was normal but we observed some droplets of liquid present on the surface. Lastly, we had lipstick 7 being formulated with high amount of honey and less amount of vitamin E acetate. Consequently, the formulation becomes so melted and less rigid because high amount of liquid honey was being added.    
     From the formulation of all the lipsticks, we noticed there are different function of ingredients in each formula. Firstly, colour pigments are used for colouring. Next, white beeswax is a common ingredient for many of the cosmetics women use everyday like lip balms, lip sticks, lip gloss, eye shadow, eye liner, and even blush. In fact, using beeswax for lip care products will actually help with the healing of cracked, or dry lips as well as the prevention of getting chapped lips especially during the colder months of the year.
    The use of castor oil as a lip balm is to moisture, nourish and care for your lips and forget about dry and chapped lips forever. Moreover, cocoa butter is an emollient, which means it adds a protective layer of hydration to your lips, useful for blocking the effects of very cold temperatures, sun damage or indoor heat, which can leave your lips dry.
     DL-Alpha tocopheryl acetate or vitamin E Acetate, is the stable form of Vitamin E most often used in cosmetic formulations for its skin care benefits. Vitamin E protects cell membranes from damage by oxygen by oxygen free radicals. It can prevent premature aging of the skin induced by UV radiation and lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, honey is used to give a sweet taste.
     Vaseline is petroleum jelly which is a mixture of natural waxes and mineral oils that together lock moisture in skin, moisturizing it to repair and relieve dryness. Petroleum jelly is hugely versatile and it’s used all over the world to protect and heal dry skin, from dry cracked hands to hard skin on heels, as well as for beauty purposes, like softening the lips. Last but not least, preservative such as paraben may be used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold, in order to protect both the products and consumers. The parabens used most commonly in cosmetics are methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben.
     There are also errors while conducting this experiment. Firstly, we might not following the proper procedures in the making of coloured lipstick. So, the ingredient may not mix evenly. Next, the accuracy of measurement is one of the errors because some ingredients are too viscous such as honey and vitamin E that we are having problem to handle it. Plus, the apparatus that we used may not clean up very well. 
Precautions that we must do are to study on how to prepare a coloured lipstick so that we are not wasting our time and we have to ensure that apparatus is clean and not wet in order to avoid any contamination.

CONCLUSION :

        In the formulation of lipstick, the combination of pigment will give variation on the colour of the lipstick. The shades of colours of the lipstick will be dependent on the mass of pigments and types of pigments. The higher amounts of colorants used, the darker the shade. Changing the amount of ingredient in phase B would change the  hardness of the lipstick. Reducing the amounts of beeswax in the formulation of lipstick would disturb the creamy consistency texture of the lipstick. Meanwhile, the cocoa butter function also acts as an emollients which acts as moisturising agents in the formulation of lipstick. Therefore, reducing the mass of cocoa butter will reduce the hydration effect. The Vaseline will serve as barrier between skins that lock the moisture from evaporate from the skin. Reducing the amounts of vitamin E acetate will give no change or disturb the hardness of lipstick as it only function as antioxidant. In a nutshell,changing the formulation of the ingredient in Phase B may give an effect on the hardness of the lipstick.
        
REFERENCES :

1. Dr. Josh A. (2017). '8 Cocoa Butter Benefits and Uses'. Retrieved from https://draxe.com/cocoa-butter/
2. Carl. (2013). 'Which lipstick texture is best for you?'. Retrieved from http://www.easymakeupguide.com/lipstick-texture.html
3. (2015). 'What is Petroleum Jelly & What is It Used For?'. Copyrighted from Unilever. Retrieved from http://www.vaseline.us/skin-health-care/what-is-petroleum-jelly.html
4. (2017). 'How lipstick is made?'. Copyrighted from Advarneg, Inc. Retrieved from http://www.madehow.com/Volume-1/Lipstick.html
5. (2016). 'Beeswax Class:Uses of Beeswas'. Copyrighted from Natures Garden Candle Making& Soap Making Supplies. Retrieved from http://www.naturesgardencandles.com/candlemaking-soap-supplies/item/00beewax/-beeswax-class.html

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